The Right Way to Apply Lash Extensions
All lash technicians aim to create a strong, secure bond between natural lashes and extensions. Yet even thorough consultations and well-crafted designs can lead to lashes falling out too soon. This common issue is frustrating and confusing for many artists.
Poor retention of lash extensions is a widespread challenge. Our professionals have compiled practical tips on lash attachment and placement to help you solve this problem.
Keep reading to find out how to boost retention rates and deliver satisfying results to every client.
Rule 1: Apply extensions 0.5 millimeters from the skin on the lash line
Lash extensions should be fitted onto natural lashes, with a 0.5mm gap from the skin along the lash line. Incorrect positioning will lead to two common problems.
Placing extensions too close to the skin may let adhesive seep onto the skin, causing discomfort. The lashes will also rub against the eyelid with every blink, which can trigger redness, swelling and puffiness around the eyes.
On the other hand, attaching extensions too far along the natural lash will create an obvious gap. Dirt and oils tend to accumulate in this space, making the extensions fall out ahead of time. They may also get caught on lash brushes and be pulled off accidentally.
Ensure the entire base of the lash extension is firmly secured
Regardless of the curl, length or direction you choose, ensure the entire base of the lash extension bonds firmly to the natural lash over a minimum 2mm area.
Improper angling will cause the base of the natural lash to stick upward. Dirt and oils will then accumulate beneath the extension, leading to early shedding. The lashes may also snag on your lash brush and get pulled off accidentally.
Some natural lashes grow crooked or at an odd angle. While you may want to apply extensions to every lash, it is better to skip these uneven lashes for stronger adhesion. They offer insufficient bonding space and tend to come loose quickly.
The 90-degree rule
The 90-degree principle states all lash extensions must be applied at a right angle to the eyelid. Position lashes perpendicular to the lid, rather than aligning with the natural lash growth or your working posture.
Certain styles such as cat-eye designs call for a wider angle. Even so, keep a 90-degree angle from the inner corner to the midpoint of the eye. A broader angle is acceptable only at the outer corner to create a lifted winged look.
Tilting extensions beyond 90 degrees at the inner corner ruins the overall appearance and may also bring discomfort to clients.
Is it okay to apply lash extensions from the side?
There are no strict rules governing the direction for applying lash extensions. Application from the side or underneath is fully acceptable. The key is to keep the extension base parallel to the natural lash and ensure sufficient bonding area.
Top placement
This is the most widely used technique. It is ideal for natural lashes that grow straight or point downward.
Side placement
This method helps create a denser lash look, perfect for clients with sparse natural lashes. That said, avoid this approach for those with tightly curled lashes, as strong curls will make it difficult to achieve adequate adhesion from the side.
Bottom placement
Ranking second in popularity after top placement, this technique is best suited for clients with upward-growing and curly natural lashes.
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